We visit the Bristol food pub that’s the ‘most exciting new opening this year’

The first thing you notice is the brightness. Not so bright that you need to wear shades inside - although there will be plenty of Clifton types who do - but it’s just so much lighter than before.

I have to admit The Clifton was never one of my favourite pubs in BS8. In recent years, it was pretty depressing actually, often full of Clifton Village bores and all so dark and dingy.

And then there were the drinks prices - I often left there feeling financially mugged, battered and bruised.

And so it’s nice to see a new team in place at this old Clifton boozer and even better to see they have stripped it right back, painted the walls white and sanded back the floorboards.

But then that’s what the new owners did at their other two places in Wales - The Hare & Hounds at Aberthin and the Heathcock in Cardiff - both of which are top flight food pubs that have gained national recognition.

The Clifton is still a pub serving decent ales (on this first week visit, it was the excellent Wye Valley HPA and St Austell Tribute) and an extensive wine list with plenty by the glass, but there’s now a restaurant at the back that is sure to become a destination in its own right.

The food is very much inspired by the likes of St John in London - the head chef worked there once - so follows a similar seasonal, ‘nose to tail’ mantra.

From a choice of snack-size offerings, I started with a skewer of ox heart (£4) - bite-size pieces of lightly spiced ox heart that had been cooked quickly over a real fire to retain pink tenderness.

The main menu is largely made up of dishes that are larger than traditional starters and smaller than main courses but these are still generous.

You could easily order two or three of these rather than a main dish and still leave feeling well-fed.

I tried the lamb sweetbreads (£15) - the soft and creamy glands served with chunks of house smoked bacon, grilled sugar snaps with a real sweetness and whole mint leaves adding freshness.

Also good was a salad of crispy pig’s cheek (£11) - the cold, crisp chunks of meat and crackling in a tangle of crunchy shaved fennel and chicory coated in a mustardy dressing with plenty of oomph.

The non-meat dishes impressed, too. Charred leeks (£8) turned up blistered and juicy with a punchy sauce gribiche and walnuts, while a beautifully presented plate of soft, sweet grilled red peppers, capers and anchovies was the perfect summer Mediterranean dish on a sticky July evening.

Around me, groups were sharing larger main dishes including the lamb shoulder, courgette and mint sauce (£28), the chicken, ham hock, leek and mustard pie (£20) and the stuffed and grilled whole sea bass (£50).

The seasonality continued through to desserts of a perfectly risen strawberry souffle and fig leaf ice cream (£10), and a wobbly, almost citrussy buttermilk pudding (£8) flanked by pert raspberries and granola.

Gutsy, no-frills cooking in a rebooted neighbourhood pub where you can still enjoy a pint and a packet of crisps if you want, The Clifton is a breath of fresh air and easily one of the most exciting new openings of the year.

The Clifton, 16 Regent Street, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 4HG.