We try the ‘timeless’ new hotel restaurant that’s just opened near Bath railway station 

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Brasserie Beau creates French classics from local ingredients

Brasserie Beau has the timeless feel of a restaurant that’s been around decades despite being open less than a month.

This upmarket new restaurant on the ground floor of Hotel Indigo Bath, just a two-minute walk from Bath railway station, has a time-honoured French brasserie look right down to the Edwardian-era liqueur posters on the distressed paint effect panelled walls.

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Set in one of those lovely honey-coloured Georgian terraces Bath is famous for, the hotel opened its doors in 2020. Occupying a Grade I-listed building, there is an outdoor terrace as well as Brasserie Beau, which runs alongside the hotel’s fine dining restaurant The Elder, both overseen by restaurateur Mike Robinson. 

The menu is the work of executive chef Liam Goldstone, who previously held a Michelin star when he was head chef at Morston Hall in Norfolk.

And it’s a large and interesting menu that is top-heavy on classic French brasserie dishes - never a bad thing - but created using British and local ingredients.

This means dishes with a sense of place like Forest of Dean wild boar Scotch eggs, Cornish mackerel rillettes and Huntsham Farm Middle White pork chops.

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As well as starters (from £8) and main courses (from £16.50) - or ‘small’ and ‘large’ plates as the menu reads - there is a section of dishes cooked on the grill and three larger sharing dishes for two people, including braised roast and mustard-glazed shoulder of wild roe deer with green peppercorn sauce for £75.

Venison ragu on toast is one of the starters at Brasserie BeauVenison ragu on toast is one of the starters at Brasserie Beau
Venison ragu on toast is one of the starters at Brasserie Beau | Mark Taylor

I started with the Bathurst Estate venison ragu on sourdough toast (£10.50) - a thick slice of toast with a carpet of venison mince which had been cooked slowly for hours until it was rich, slightly spicy (maybe there was some Worcestershire sauce in the mix) and basically like a superior version of a classic Bolognese sauce. A snowy flurry of grated aged Parmesan across the dish provided even more richness and flavour.

Across the table, a meaty mosaic of smoked Tamworth ham hock terrine with a tangy, mustardy piccallili (£8.50) was proving a popular choice with my daughter.

Whole plaice meuniere at Brasserie BeauWhole plaice meuniere at Brasserie Beau
Whole plaice meuniere at Brasserie Beau | Mark Taylor

A whole plaice meunière (£29) was accurately cooked, the delicate white fish coming off the bone with ease and the lemony, caper-studded butter sauce enhanced with a generous handful of salty shrimps and crunchy broccoli stems. A portion of crunchy, salty triple-cooked chips (£5) was all that was needed on the side to make it the ultimate fish and chip supper.

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My daughter, meanwhile, was making easy work of her Huntsham Farm sirloin steak (£39) although I agree that it might have looked even more impressive if served still attached to the advertised bone.

The pink fingers of deep-flavoured steak had been sliced and arranged next to the bare bone, which looked a little odd and took away some of the fun. Still, it scored top marks for flavour, as did the tarragon-spiked béarnaise sauce.

The treacle tart at Brasserie Beau The treacle tart at Brasserie Beau
The treacle tart at Brasserie Beau | Mark Taylor

Too full for our own desserts, we shared a slice of warm treacle tart (£12) which wasn’t tooth-achingly sweet as it can often be, and the blob of crème fraîche and neat tangle of candied orange peel provided a counterpoint to the rib-sticking richness.

Brasserie Beau plugs a gap between the higher end chain restaurants like Cote and the fantastic independent restaurants Bath is blessed to have such as Chez Dominique, Landrace and Beckford Canteen. It’s a stylish and welcome new addition to Bath’s dining scene.

Brasserie Beau at Hotel Indigo Bath, 2-8 South Parade, Bath, BA2 4AB. Tel: 01225 460441.

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