We try the 'bargain' lunch menu at the pop-up restaurant inside one of Bristol’s most historic buildings

Talk about upscaling. Top Bristol independent restaurant Sonny Stores has moved lock, stock and barrel from its modest Southville home to one of Bristol’s most historic buildings.

Not that Raleigh Road locals need to worry too much about losing their beloved neighbourhood Italian restaurant forever as it’s only a temporary measure.

The popular Southville eatery is having a bit of a facelift so rather than shut down the business completely, owners Pegs Quinn and Mary Glynn decided to move the entire operation into central Bristol while the builders were in.

Sonny Stores has now reopened as a pop-up inside the Grade I-listed Friary Building in Quakers Friars, Broadmead.

Once a Quaker meeting house and then a register office, it was turned into a branch of Brasserie Blanc when Cabot Circus opened and then it was briefly the Klosterhaus restaurant until it suddenly closed at the start of 2023.

Since then, this landmark building has been empty and mothballed until it finds a new custodian but it’s still fully equipped as a restaurant, which has made life easier for Sonny Stores to run as a pop-up until June 2 when they pack up and head back to Raleigh Road.

With its high ceilings, alabaster columns and vast space on two floors, it’s certainly a big stage for Sonny Stores, which is usually a cosy little restaurant in a former corner shop. 

The chefs are now cooking in a huge industrial-size kitchen considerably bigger than what they’re used to and waiting staff must be wearing out their trainers by walking so much compared to their usual compact workplace where the kitchen is a few steps from the dining room.

The setting and service may now be on a different level, the diners may be more of a mix (a few old Southville regulars are still making the trip but there’s a lot of ‘new’ faces apparently) but the food is of the same high quality.

And it’s also good to see the set lunch menu (Thursday and Friday) still on offer - at £25 for three courses, it’s a steal.

Of course, you don’t have to order from that menu. Main courses not included in the deal when we visited included whole roast quail on toast with new season broad beans, Marsala, Dijon and prosciutto (£28) and confit chalk stream trout, golden and red beetroot, spinach and aioli (£25).

You could also order a couple of antipasti dishes and sit at the lovely central bar with a glass of wine. It’s all very relaxed and chilled out despite the grand setting.

From the set menu, I kicked off with butterflied red mullet, potato and bottarga butter (normally £14). The boneless fillets of super-fresh mullet were served with thick slices of potato coated in the fishy butter. The richness was countered by a firm squeeze of the accompanying lemon wedge.

To follow, handmade lasagnetti (essentially small sheets of silky, lasagne-style pasta) were accompanied by generous pieces of lobster, sweet Datterini tomatoes, garlic and fresh oregano which added bursts of fragrant freshness to the luxurious buttery sauce. The dish would normally be priced at £24 if not part of the £25 for three courses deal so a serious bargain.

I finished with an enormous meringue the size of a discus, topped with thick crème fraîche and a perfectly poached pear. Desserts are all £8 on the main menu.

Aside from drinks and service, the set menu was a saving of £21 on the three dishes, which represents seriously good value whichever way you look at it.

It’s great to see one of Bristol’s top independent restaurants given such a prime spot to showcase its food and reach a wider audience.

Just remember that it’s only popping up in Broadmead until June 2 - you’d be a fool to miss it.

Sonny Stores at The Friary, Quakers Friars, Broadmead, Bristol, BS1 3DF. To book a table, click here.