We try the new summer menu at a Bristol food and music ‘institution’ 

Perhaps the most surprising thing about The Gallimaufry is the fact it has only been open 12 years.

This Gloucester Road venue has become such an integral part of Bristol’s music, food and drink scene that it’s hard to remember a time when it wasn’t there.

From our upstairs table for dinner the other evening, we had a bird’s eye view of the posters of past gigs plastered on the walls - the most striking of the lot being one for a young unknown Gallimaufry regular called George Ezra. I wonder what happened to him.

Opened in 2012 by James Koch and James Smailes, The Gallimaufry is truly deserving of its ‘Bristol institution’ tag. Over 12 years, it has become a real community hub, championing local musicians and artists.

On a food level, it is firmly established as a place for legendary Sunday roasts and an ever-changing choice of small plates. And then there’s the sunny pavement terrace - an essential spot for alfresco pints throughout the summer.

Head chef Maddie Crombie has been rattling the pots and pans upstairs at The Gallimaufry for six years and she has just launched her new summer menu.

She says it’s a playful take on classic ‘pub grub’ but with the usual Gallimaufry quirkiness. There are bar snacks of pork, leek and mustard sausage rolls and Caribbean patties stuffed with spiced mushroom and sweet potato.

Main courses include beer-battered haddock and triple cooked chips; free-range Jerk chicken salad and, for the vegans, pineapple kimchi and tofu poke bowl with sticky jasmine rice.

Speaking about the menu, Maddie says: “We’ve kept the small plates which are a Gallimaufry staple and which we love dearly, and have added a few different options for dining styles alongside this. 

“Some bar snacks, some larger mains dishes and some ‘Galli Buns’ - stuffed brioche buns - for more casual dining. We have also added a children's menu for the little uns. As we’ve adopted in the kitchen, suns out, (Galli) buns out!”

On a busy mid-week evening, we shared a couple of the small plates as starters. Carrot and spring greens bhajis (£8) were sweet and earthy with a gentle spiciness. They were served with cool curried soy yoghurt, raisin salsa and coriander. I can’t recall a more flavour-packed and interesting vegan dish for a long time.

The Somerset lamb and beef meatballs (£11) were firm orbs of good quality meat with gently warming North African-style spices, smooth tahini yoghurt, dukkah and pomegranate seeds bursting with a sweet sharpness. Another excellent dish.

A buttermilk fried chicken ‘Galli Bun’ (£14) was a generous dish comprising a soft brioche bun filled with large, crisp-coated pieces of juicy chicken, aioli, chilli sauce, pickles and gem lettuce. There were crisp and fluffy triple-cooked chips and crunchy slaw on the side. 

Also good was the confit pork belly (£16) - a tender block of meat served with creamy buttermilk and dill potato salad, sautéed greens and a punchy salsa verde. The pin-sharp flavour combinations were intelligent and the dish well executed.

To finish, we shared a perfect sticky date pudding (£7) smothered with toffee sauce and topped with decent vanilla ice cream.

This was arguably the best meal I’ve had at The Gallimaufry, a venue that just seems to be improve with age on every level. The new menu is well designed and fairly priced, too.

The Gallimaufry’s new menu is available all day, Tuesday to Saturday from 12-3pm and 5-9pm. They are also open for Sunday roasts from midday. You can book a table on their website at www.thegallimaufry.co.uk. 

The Gallimaufry, 26-28 Gloucester Road, Bishopston, Bristol, BS7 8AL.