I tried the new Bristol seafood restaurant with the best view in the city

Named after the young son of the first-time restaurateur owners, Noah’s is the much talked about new seafood restaurant tucked away under the flyover overlooking the Cumberland Basin.

Most Bristolians will still know the place as the Lockside greasy spoon and various transport cafes before that - after all, there has been an eatery on this riverside site since 1963.

Of course, many Bristolians will also remember it fondly as the fictional Sid’s Cafe in TV sitcom Only Fools and Horses.

And now it’s in the hands of chef Daniel Rosser and his wife Joie, whose family also run the award-winning Bath seafood restaurant Scallop Shell and fish and chip shop The Oyster Shell.

With an exterior clad in the sort of polished wood used to finish small boats and with huge porthole-like windows, there is a distinctly nautical look to Noah’s.

Inside, there are well spaced tables and aqua blue banquettes, with a terrace in the process of being finished in time for the summer and plans for a shellfish counter.

Window tables are highly prized here and is it any wonder. The panoramic views of the Cumberland Basin, the grand houses of Clifton and the suspension bridge are simply stunning. Is there a better or more iconic Bristol view from any restaurant table in the city?

Open for lunch and dinner, Noah’s is already trying hard to cater for all.

Served from 12noon to 3pm Tuesday to Friday, the ‘Lock Keeper’s Lunch’ deal is an absolute steal at £12.95. It offers a choice of three main courses served with chips, homemade tartare sauce and mushy peas with a mug of proper Yorkshire tea.

As with its Bath sibling, fish and chips - the choice is between North Atlantic cod (£18.90), day boat Cornish haddock fillet (£19) or hake fillet from Newlyn (£19) with mushy peas, tartare sauce and chips - is already the best-seller at Noah’s, but the menu goes far beyond the British national dish.

You could really push the boat out by ordering half a dozen Porthilly rock oysters (£3.95 each) before a south coast skate wing with salsa verde, garlic and parsley and chips at £23.50.

Alternatively, non-fish fans could order free-range chicken breast crisp fried in lemon and thyme crumb with chips and romesco or go for the veggie option of crisp fried bubble and squeak Scotch egg with chips and Madras curry sauce.

We kicked off with a couple of impeccably timed Orkney Isle hand-dived scallops (£5.50 each) attractively presented in the shell with a mossy, bubbling pool of garlic and herb butter.

There was also a generous starter of smoked sardines on thick sourdough toast (£10) with a carpet of finely chopped tomatoes, capers, shallots and parsley that countered the richness of the fish.

The fried Cornish hake (£19) was faultless - the crisp and golden batter revealing thick flakes of white fish. The homemade mushy peas were generously seasoned with plenty of minty notes and the glossy tartare sauce was packed with herbs.

But the real highlight was the grilled whole Cornish sole (£22.50) - the delicate, sweet fish was precisely cooked with lashings of shellfish butter and topped with finely chopped shrimps and chervil, which added a herby freshness.

It was an immaculate piece of fish cookery and all the more enjoyable to eat with a waterside view.

To finish, perfectly ripe marinated strawberries were served with a wobbly vanilla set cream (£6.50) and an indulgent and bitter dark chocolate mousse (£6.50) was accompanied by some really top drawer clotted cream ice cream.

For a city built around a river and with such a long maritime history, Bristol has never really had a truly great waterfront fish restaurant. It does now.

The best of the day’s catch served simply on the quayside, set against the most stunning and iconic city view - Noah’s is the riverside seafood restaurant Bristol has long been waiting to dock.

Noah’s, 1 Brunel Lock Road, Bristol, BS1 6XS. Tel: 0117 4529240.